I got around 6hrs sleep and It was another restless night with a slight headache and feeling a little nauseous which seems to be normal for high altitude. There was the usual early start again and opted for some porridge for breakfast which I struggled to finish as my appetite was not great in the morning. I decided what I needed was to get going on the trek and the fresh mountain air would soon sort me out.
It was not a great start on my trek to Pheriche as my legs were like sandbags and it was pretty slow going, I checked my heartrate on my Garmin and it started at 90 before I even got started (the usual is about 65). I was trekking for around 2hrs and then we hit a milestone of 4,000m which was the mid point of today’s trek and the days lunch stop. I was glad for the stop as the sun was out in full force and the poor sleep, altitude and heat was really draining. I dont know what it was about reaching 4,000m but I felt like I had hit a wall, I was extremely natuous to the point that I was unable to finish the garlic soup I ordered for lunch. I tried drinking quite a bit of water as I had a really bad headache and was dizzy and I had a Ibuprofen too, it was not looking great. This was the first time that I actually thought I might not make it to base camp, I mean there was still another 1,300m to go and it was not going to get any easier, my guide was also a little concerned too as I must have looked how I felt.
After lunch the trekking began again and I started to get a bit of a second wind which coincided with the sun dying down a bit making it a bit cooler to trek. It took another 2 hours to reach our destination, the path was winding and luckily had an absence of steep accents which made it more manageable.
At the tea house I decided not to just chill out in the lounge but after a ginger tea I headed out for an acclimatisation hike. My guide niraj was not up for this so I headed out alone, there was a small hill that overshadowed the town and the mist was starting to come in. I headed along a windy path and up to the top of the hill which was around 100m above where I started. I was actually feeling ok at this stage and I enjoyed the short time at the top of the hill, there was no one around just a bit of mist which reminded me of Scotland and the many misty days spent there. The appreciation of the atmospheric mist and tranquility was short lives as the mist began to get thicker and thicker to the point that visibility was getting pretty bad. As I didn’t fancy getting standard there i made a quick decent down to the path I started on and headed for my tearoom accommodation.
The tearoom I was staying in was larger than my previous accommodations with a long dining hall that was reminiscent of a school dinner hall. It was buzzing with people as a large group of teenagers from America where staying there which meant a large amount of “oh my gods” and “thats amazing”. I was suffering a bit from heat stroke as I sat with my book in the one quietish area of the dining hall, I had really underestimated the amount of sun on this trip, when its warm you are so exposed and it really does take its toll. My face was bright red and along with that I was hungry as I had not eaten properly all day a few harry bo and some porridge really is not enough. I got some friend potatoes and felt a little better after eating that and having some water.
After dinner I stayed talking t my guide and we decided to further alter the itinerary, originally we were supposed to spend two days at high altitude at Labouche (4,900m) and Gorak Shep (5,164m). As I have been feeling the effect of the altiture we decided to do one night at labouche and then head straight back afterwards. It means that day will be quite long but we have been making good times and going at a good pace so it should be manageable.